原标题：上海新锐设计师集成店 Covetry

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上海新锐设计师集成店

Covetry

Covetry creates a platform to curate emerging labels in Shanghai

The Mozaik蛇纹手拿包、Guess毛衣 由IVAN GRIANTI拍摄于米兰时装周

如今，潮牌集合店如雨后春笋般涌入上海，概念店也不甘示弱、迅速扩张，如：新天地的新锐设计师品牌潮店、10 Corso Como、Dongliang、Alter、XinLeLu等。这种新型零售方式为大批上海的小众设计师品牌提供给了新的出路，既缩小了与大品牌间的差距，又在不用投入大量成本的基础上瞄准市场欲分一杯羹。

There’s a burgeoning amount of multibrand stores in Shanghai now where the idea of concept stores is also starting to expand quickly going from Xintiandi’s emerging designer label spaces to 10 Corso Como, Dongliang, Alter, Xin LeLuand more. However a new retailer is offering an alternative solution to filling in the gap between big branded labels, and the mass, celebrating more niche, lesser-known designers emerging labels in Shanghai’s fashion scene who want a “taste” of the market without the astronomous costs involved.

The Mozaik蛇纹手拿包、Heirloom墨镜、Guess毛衣、Revolve鞋履、KeepSake The Label外套，由Kevin Liu拍摄于巴黎时装周

“

Covetry

”

一家拥护新兴品牌的设计师集成店，采用“快闪式”服务、销售模式，以吸引潜在的合作伙伴。Covetry由三位怀揣相同梦想的好朋友兼企业家共同创立：The Mozaik手包创始人Rinnie Wiryo，Pivot PR创意总监Zach Goh，以及Oba时装设计师Joanna Lim。

a multibrand platform that acts as a true support for brands who are just starting off, is offering a “pop up” multi-service business model in order to create a mini catalyst boost for its potential partners. The concept was founded by three friends and entrepreneurs in the creative feild: Rinnie Wiryofounder of the handbag label The Mozaik, Zach GohCreative Director at Pivot PR Marketing,and Joanna Limfashion designer at Oba.

清晨，我们一边品尝着热气腾腾的现磨咖啡，一边听Rinnie从个人和专业角度谈及Covetry的销售理念和发展方向，如何权衡她的手包品牌和零售业务，甚至如何分身乏术、兼顾琐事（照顾孩子）去追求自己的理想？

Interviewing Rinnie over freshly brewed morning coffee, she shares on a personal and professional level the future and concept behind the retail project Covetry, how she balances her bag label with the retail projects, and lastly how she juggles these tasks (plus the kids) on a daily basis to pursue her dreams.

在中国做一名女强人的感觉如何？

How it is being a Power Women in China?

“我们既是零售商，又是合伙人，还是品牌创始人。”

“We are fair as a retailer, we are fair as your partner, and we are fair as a brand”

“我不觉得自己是女强人，我是那种愿意为理想付诸行动的人，”Wiryo笑着说。Covetry创办之前，她带着复兴民族手工艺术、流传手工技艺的愿景，将其糅合进现代设计风格，创立了The Mozaik手包品牌。

“ I dont see myself as a power women, I see myself as someone who has a vision that I want to realize.” Wiryolaughs. Before starting Covetry, she launched The Mozaikbag line in the objective to revive artisanal skills and preserving these skills while creating modern looking designs in an ethical manner.

“目前很少有商店、平台或服务能够真正将设计师联合起来。大家的当务之急是盈利而不是关注设计者本身。特别是那些后起之秀，他们煞费苦心地寻找优质面料，渴望出人头地，结果却往往不尽如意，就是因为他们依靠的平台和途径使它们看起来千篇一律，很容易就被埋没在竞争激烈的作品中.”Wiryo说。

“Currently there aren’t many shops, platforms, or services that allow to really work and collaborate with designers hand in hand. Their current focus is more on a commercial aspect while not emphasizing on the designers themselves. Especially for designers who are new and young, they put their whole energy and focus on finding qualitative materials and trying to stand out, but they dont receive the amplification they need because of the platforms and channels they use which often make them look like any other commodity products amongst the flooded competition.” says Wiryo.

店铺原址位于上海的高岛屋百货，由于目标消费者和顾客光顾率不足，近期搬到南昌路上建立长期的“快闪式”概念店，在扩大服务范围的同时补偿高额租金。此外，由于视觉营销、创意等的限制减少，搬离高岛屋百货后，她们与设计师之间得以更加灵活地合作。

Recently moving from their original base at Takashimaya due to the inadequate target audience and store traffic type, the retailer is now based on Nanchang road and created a permanent “pop up”store concept to expand the areas of services while covering the space’s high rental costs. Moreover, moving from Takashimaya also gave the team more freedom to operate creatively with designers as there are fewer restrictions imposed in terms of Visual Merchandising, creativity and more.

“目前，我们将店铺的中心位置交给设计师作为他们的‘快闪站’，他们可以根据自己的视觉营销理念任意布置。在合适的区域陈列自己的作品，既要引人耳目，又要避免起步的集市化，这一点对于新锐设计师来说很难。达成双赢协议后，我们将这些区域租借给设计师，给予他们为期一个月的试水。有了工作室、媒体参观、CRM/VIP活动，设计师得以体会到拥有专属之地的心情。我们还会提供咨询/培训业务，并通过我们的数据库带来新客源，反之亦然。

“Now we’re able to allocate the front space to designers as a “pop up” where they are free to create their own Visual Merchandise. We understand how difficult it is for emerging designers to showcase their collections in a proper area with high visibility without having it to be a bazaar or market to start with. Lending out this front space to put designers on a pedestal allows them to test the waters over a one-month period through a mutual win-win agreement. Around workshops, media tours, CRM/VIP events, I think it gives designers a good base to know how it feels to have your own space, where we also provide consultancy/training as well as bringing in new traffic from our database and vice versa.” she continues.

目标客户有哪些？

The Targeted Audience?

“我们当前的目标客户是中国消费者，不过我们很多老顾客接触的都是西式风格。他们很欣赏这些新锐设计师，其中很多人也曾国外留学或工作过。我们看到市场变化日新月异，消费者不再只关注服装本身，而是设计师及其品牌背后的故事。

“Our current TA is Chinese consumers, however, many of our loyal customers have a lot of international exposure with a western style. They also have a strong affection towards emerging designers where many of them have studied or worked abroad. We’re also seeing the market changing very quickly in terms of consumer appeal for products where we see that they are more and more interested in connecting not only with the product itself but with the designer and background story of the designer label as well.”

店铺的未来发展与扩张？

Expansion and Future Projects?

“Covetry是指有组织的、难以获得的、以团队和专营服务/商品为中心的意思。我们关注那些价值观一致的新锐设计师，他们追求高质量、手工制品和限量生产，” Wiryo接着说。

“Covetry means something that is curated and hard to get, revolving around groups and niche services/products. We want to focus on emerging designers, who share the values of high quality, handmade products and limited amounts.” continues Wiryo.

基于这一想法，她们一步步精心打理，让小店步上正轨。首先，创办并运营微店，并利用社交平台造势，接着大大扩张零售区域来引起轰动效应。

“零售业这一行很难做，由于运营成本太高，专心打理就显得尤为重要。我们希望帮助设计师，不仅仅起到社交纽带的作用，还可以充当咨询顾问的角色，让他们从B2B/B2C的角度受到更多的关注。”

With this being, the group is cautiously going phase by phase in order to get the bases right; First by creating and managing a Wechat store and building on social media platforms, thereafter expanding significantly the retail space in order to create more impact.

“Retail is a hard industry where the operational costs are extremely high so its important to stay focused, we want to help our designers as not only being social connectors but also consultants in order for them to receive more attention on a B2B / B2C level.”

Rinnie自主工艺手包品牌如今也入驻Covetry，身为3个孩子母亲的她每天都在不停地切换自身角色，“周围的人都很支持我，包括我的丈夫，这让我觉得特别幸运。我每天将工作平衡到3次完成，不过不能时时陪伴孩子让我感到很愧疚，他们长得很快，正是需要我一心一意关心照顾的时候，所以我会尽量放下手机，每天抽2小时的空和他们待在一起。我常常会忘了照顾自己，所以我还在做权衡，但事业起步的时候得到大家的支持真的很重要，”她谦虚地说。

Rinnie having a family of three kids, her own brand of handcrafted bags, and now launching Covetry, she is juggling between these roles on a daily basis changing hats, “ I have a great support system around me , including my husband, I feel extremely fortunate to have this. I balance my time to dedicate three times a day for work, however having kids comes with endless guilt of not always being able to be there for them as they end up growing very fast an need your undivided attention where I try to make up my days by leaving the phone and focus on them for two full hours a day. I often forget to take care of myself so I am also still trying to find a balance in my life, but having a great support system is very important when starting a business” she says humbly.

支持系统：如果你真的很真挚诚恳，大家也会以相同的态度回应你，大家感受到你的诚意便是建立有效支持系统的第一步。相信直觉至关重要，当然时不时地会错，但我从不沉溺于此，我想得开，不会耿耿于怀，这很关键。母亲的角色能够提高认知，让我成为更好的人。

The Support System; If you are sincere and genuine, people will be the same back to you, people feel this and thats the first step to creating an effective support system. Instincts are extremely important, of course I get cheated once in a while, but I dont dwell on it, I move on and dont hold a grudge, this is key. Being a mom now, its also helped me be a much better person as it increasing ones awareness.

Covetry店内的The Mozaik水桶包

关于The MOZAIK

About The MOZAIK

The Mozaik蛇纹手拿包、Dori Tomcsanyi条纹衬衫、Chloe眼镜（Marchon墨镜）、Guess牛仔裙和Jeffery Campbell鞋履，由Ivan Grianti拍摄于米兰时装周

Diesel米兰时装周，The Mozaik手拿包， MFW

Covetry店内的Dienastie墨镜、The Mozaik手拿包、C/MEO Collective衬衫，由Ivan Grianti拍摄于米兰时装周

四年前就关注该品牌的我见证了它的发展壮大，你能够感受到品牌背后的故事，一个关于独特风格和工艺的故事。该品牌运用皮革、蛇皮、小牛毛、自然染色的编织面料等进行设计，手包大小不一、造型丰富，如：水桶包、大号托特包和晚宴手拿包。

Knowing the brand for over 4 years, I’ve seen the label evolve over time where you can feel there’s a story to the brand now, a story of distinctive color and craftsmanship, while playing with leather, snakeskin, calf hair, naturally dyed woven leaves, and more, the label now offers a good balance between the variety of sizes and forms from bucket bags, large totes to evening clutches.

繁复垂落的流苏点缀、手工编织穗带和仿马毛新型材料是本季的特别单品，也是它们的首次亮相。“从供应、制作直到完成阶段，我都以可持续产品为主。为了使这些手包具有民族特色，因此管理和经营成本太高，我只能限量生成，每种风格最多100件，”Wiryo说。

Intricate details on tassels, hand woven braids and new textiles of horsey like hair are special pieces for this season that are being shown for the first time. “I focus on sustainable products going from the supply chain, to process and the finished product. Hence, as the administrative and operational costs are extremely high in order to make these bags ethically, I can only create limited editions and pieces, max 100 per style.” says Wiryo.

The Mozaik蛇纹手拿包、C/MEO Collective百褶连衣裙、Vintage裤子、Ferragamo墨镜（Marchon墨镜），由Alex DeLarge拍摄， 上海

“目前，中国的水平在亚洲处于领先地位。鉴于大众的需求，同亚洲其他国家相比，中国的技能发展及其迅猛，尤其是东南亚国家与中国已不可相提并论（如：柬埔寨、越南等），那些国家还习惯于设计基本运动款、T恤、棉布料等。尽管中国本土的面料不算最好，设计师依旧会进口面料但这里的技艺非常成熟，你能找到那些会做极其复杂版型的裁缝。我很自豪自己是‘中国制造运动’的支持者，”Rinnie说。

“Moreover, Chinas current skillset is one of the strongest in Asia. China has been extremely efficient in developing their skills sets because of the mass demands they were required to make in the past compared to the rest of Asia, especially South East Asia which is not on par with China ( i.e Cambodia, Vietnam,etc.), as they are more used to creating fast products such as basic sports good, T’s, cotton cutting etc.

Although China’s own materials are not the best and they are still using imported materials, skill set is extremely advanced here where you can find seamstresses who can make extremely complex products. I’m very proud to support the <Made in China Movement>” says Rinnie.

Covetry品牌一览

Brands spotted at Covetry

Dienastie墨镜、Guess T恤、Stacatto鞋履，手拿MateMate茶饮参加巴黎时装周， 由 Kevin Liu拍摄

Covetry上海门店的初次亮相聚焦了以下品牌：本土品牌Queensback的精致手拿包、纽约品牌Emily Keller的双面针织衫、Dienastie墨镜、Queensback编制手拿包、NoBeing皮质宣言饰品以及新晋香港珠宝品牌Playback Concept等。下面是一些抢镜的单品：

Covetry features several brands making their Shanghai store debut, such as the intricate range of clutch bags from locally-based Queensback creating Woven clutches, NYC brand Emily Keller creating reversible knitwear apparel, NoBeingstatement leather accessories inspired by nature, Playback Conceptan emerging HK jewelry label, and more.

Here are some that stood out:

Emily Keller双面紧身胸衣、Annakiki裤子、Marchon墨镜，由Ivan Grianti拍摄于米兰时装周

一只看起来好似婴儿奶嘴的戒指是该品牌的宣言单品，充满着柔美却神秘的气息。这个珠宝概念品牌以水滴元素为主打，佩戴时，手工吹制的玻璃材料可以营造出彩虹般的缤纷效果。

The la.CollectionThai brand is probably one of the accessory peices at Covetry which surprised me the most. Looking like a baby’s Pacifier Soother, the rings are a strong statement piece that gave off a both soft but unpredictable vibe. The conceptual jewelry label created the collection around the idea of water droplets through hand-made blown glass making a rainbow effect when worn.

Arete请中国技艺精湛的师傅花费大量时间进行商品的完善，他们擅长在进口的优质面料上揉入精湛的工艺细节。

Aretespends an extreme amount of time to develop their products with highly skilled workers in China, where their strength is really on the intricate details of the product with highly qualitative imported materials.

Arete外套和Revolve鞋履，由毛佳颖拍摄于巴黎时装周

Covetry店内的Arete PVC大衣、Heirloom手包、Stacatto鞋履和Guess裙装，由Alex DeLarge拍摄

OBA真的是在彻底改变风格，休闲裤、灵动的连衣裙、短裙代替了以往的外套风衣。“一体适用”的穿戴简便概念同样适用于商业社会。

OBAis really revamping their style going more into pants, fluid dresses and shirts instead of outerwear. Very easy to wear with the concept of “one size fits all” is something that is also commercially friendly.

Playback Concept是由香港设计师Chan Po Fung创办的珠宝品牌，作品创意源自他的童年记忆，我们看到了受当代设计和现代艺术启发的木质元素混搭金属、许愿骨、大理石、方向盘等。

Playback Concept,is a jewelry label founded in HK by Chan Po Fung who created his designs inspired by his childhood memories, we often find wooden elements mixed with metal, wish bones, marbles, wheels and more that is inspired by contemporary design and modern art.

Covetry店内的Queensback手拿包

www.thecovetry.co

Instagram: thecovetry

微信公众号／Wechat: thecovetry

Store add／地址: 242 Nan Chang Road, near Rui Jin Er Lu ／ 上海市南昌路242号，近瑞金二路

Store Hours／营业时间: Tuesday- Sunday 11:00 – 21:00 ／ 周二—周日11:00 – 21:00

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